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How to Propagate Houseplants

Turn one plant into many. A beginner's guide to propagating houseplants - stem cuttings, cane and leaf cuttings, division, offsets and plantlets, and the case for rooting in mix rather than water - following University of Illinois Extension advice.

How to Propagate Houseplants

Propagation is how one pothos becomes several plants for shelves, gifts and friends. The University of Illinois Extension explains that most houseplants are propagated from a part of the parent plant rather than from seed, which would take too long and might not produce plants like the parent; the new plant is a genetic copy. Plants can be propagated by cuttings, division, layering, and special structures such as runners and offsets, and many by more than one method.

This guide follows the University of Illinois houseplant propagation pages.

What you need

  • Clean containers. Nearly any container works if it is clean and free of disease; a clear one-gallon food storage bag works too.
  • Sharp, clean tools. A pocket knife, razor blade or clippers, sterilised before and between cuts by dipping in denatured alcohol.
  • A rooting mix. Clean, disease-free coarse sand, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, or a combination, which supports the cutting and gives the roots water and air.
  • Humidity. Enclosing the container in clear plastic or glass, or misting, raises the humidity around the cutting.
  • Rooting hormone (optional). The University of Illinois says it raises the rooting rate of many plants and often shortens rooting time, but many houseplants root so easily that it is not important; it helps with species that are hard to root.

Water or mix?

Many people root pothos or ivy in a glass of water, and some plants, such as ivy and philodendron, do root easily that way. The University of Illinois does not recommend it, though: roots that develop in water are often weak and do not adapt as easily to potting mix as roots formed in a rooting mix.

Method 1: Stem cuttings

The University of Illinois method:

  1. Take cuttings while the plant is actively growing, usually in spring or summer, though other months can work.
  2. Cut 3-6 inches (about 8-15cm) of stem, with at least two nodes and no more than six. A node is where a leaf grows from the stem, sometimes a bumpy or raised area. Tip cuttings often root fastest.
  3. Trim the leaves, leaving two or three, and remove any flowers or seeds so the energy goes into roots.
  4. Plant it. Pre-moisten the rooting mix, make a hole with a pencil, remove leaves that would be below the surface, dip the end in rooting hormone if you like, and insert the cutting 1-3 inches (2.5-8cm) deep.
  5. Keep it humid. Mist with water and put a clear plastic bag over the pot.
  6. Wait and check. Soft plants with water-filled stems can root within a week; tougher stems may take 10-14 days. When the roots are an inch (2.5cm) long, plant each cutting in its own pot.

Let some cuttings dry first. Succulents, cacti, pelargoniums and rubber plants should not go straight into the mix: let the cut surface air-dry and heal over first, which helps prevent disease.

Method 2: Cane cuttings

Plants such as dieffenbachia and dracaena can be grown from sections of cane. Cut two- or three-inch (5-8cm) sections, each with at least two nodes, and either stand them upright in pre-moistened mix or lay them half-buried on their side. New shoots form at the exposed nodes and roots at the buried ones (University of Illinois).

Method 3: Leaf cuttings

A leaf cutting has to grow both roots and shoots, so it usually takes longer to make a mature plant than a stem cutting (University of Illinois):

  • Fleshy leaves such as jade: insert the leaf into pre-moistened mix.
  • Fleshy leaf stalks such as African violets: insert the leaf stalk into the mix.
  • Rex and other fibrous begonias: cut through the main veins, lay the whole leaf on the mix and pin it down; new plants form at the cuts.

Cover with a clear plastic bag and keep in bright but indirect light. New plants form at the base of the leaf or stalk, and the old leaf can then be cut away.

Method 4: Division

Division works for plants that grow in clumps or have more than one stem coming out of the soil. Take the plant out of its pot, pry the stems apart so each piece has a fair share of roots, and repot each piece straight away so the roots don’t dry out. Tough root balls, such as asparagus fern’s, may need cutting apart with a sharp knife (University of Illinois). The University of Illinois lists division as the way to propagate snake plant.

Method 5: Offsets and plantlets

  • Offsets are small plants that grow right next to the parent, as in aloe vera, bromeliads and African violets. Cut them away with a sharp knife, making sure each offset has roots.
  • Plantlets grow at the ends of long runners, as on the spider plant and strawberry begonia. Don’t remove them until they have roots: pin them down to soil with a paper clip, perhaps in a second pot, wait 2-3 weeks for roots, then snip them from the parent and repot. The University of Illinois notes that spider plants root so easily that many gardeners pot up plantlets before a full root system has formed and still succeed.

Common propagation mistakes

  • Too few nodes. The University of Illinois suggests at least two nodes per stem cutting.
  • Dirty tools or mix. Use clean containers, sterilised tools and disease-free rooting mix.
  • Planting fleshy cuttings straight away. Let succulent, cactus, pelargonium and rubber plant cuttings heal over first.
  • Moving plantlets too early. Wait until spider plant and strawberry begonia plantlets have roots, or pin them down until they do.
  • Impatience. Rooting time varies by species; check regularly rather than pulling cuttings out.

Frequently asked questions

What is the easiest plant to propagate?

The University of Illinois notes that spider plants root easily, often forming short white roots while the plantlets are still attached, and that many houseplants root so easily that rooting hormone is not needed.

Can you propagate any houseplant in water?

Some, such as ivy and philodendron, root easily in water, but the University of Illinois does not recommend it, because water-grown roots are often weak and adapt less easily to potting mix.

How long does it take for cuttings to root?

It varies by species. The University of Illinois says soft plants with water-filled stems can root within a week, while plants with tougher stems may take 10-14 days; leaf cuttings take longer to make a mature plant.

When should I pot up a cutting?

When the roots are about an inch (2.5cm) long (University of Illinois).

Sources


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